Southern Spain

On Sunday, May 13th, after an action packed few days with the extended Mitchell family in London, Sarah, Kevin, Cole, John and I flew to Malaga, Spain (southern coast of Spain, on the Mediterranean). Back in January when we were planning our European adventure, I suggested southern Spain as there are lots of neat places to visit, plus we could get some beach time in. A colleague of Kevin’s gave us a recommendation on where to stay, where to get our rental car and places to visit. That sure made things easy! Kevin was pleasantly surprised that all of that internet correspondence and booking actually resulted in a rental car and condo waiting for us.

The whole trip exceeded all of our expectations. The highlight for us was getting to spend time with our five month old nephew, Cole. Warning – most of the photos posted will be of him.

Our condo was about an hour southwest of Malaga, just outside the town of Estepona. It is tough to tell where towns end and begin because the coast is all built up with holiday condos. It is a very popular vacation spot for Brits & Germans. There was a lot of development going on; we have never seen so many cranes!

We rented a two bedroom condo in a complex right on the ocean, with a grassy courtyard/pool area where we could lounge. From the beach we could see Gibraltar. Rod Stuart used to own the house next door. There weren’t many other people staying in our complex so we had the pool to ourselves. Later in the afternoons, we usually got an entertaining, leprechaun-like visit from two young resident Irish boys, O’sean (pronounced oh-seen) and Fin.

We quickly settled into a relaxing daily routine. We’d wake up in good time and play with Cole over breakfast. Sarah, the sandwich artist, would make us delicious baguette sandwiches for the day. Then we would do some sort of sight seeing. Upon return, we would hit the pool for some sun tanning, swimming and relaxing, interspersed with playing with Cole, reading magazines, playing backgammon and napping. When we had had enough of the sun (it was brilliantly sunny and hot all week), we would go up to the condo, make dinner and play with Cole some more. The men would begin their San Miguel (beer) consumption for the evening. Our dinners were always casual but tasty. After Cole’s bedtime the men vs women Cribbage games would begin. On average two games a night. The women started the week off strong getting up to a lead of 4 to 2, but unfortunately, by Saturday night, the men were the series champions with a score of 9 to 7. We’d hit the sack and get up to do it all again.

Monday, our first full day, was John’s 30th birthday. We had a very relaxing day of exploring Estepona and hanging out on the beach and by the pool. Sarah and Kevin treated John to a birthday dinner of tapas at the harbour. I surprised John with tickets to Ricky Gervais’ live comedy act at Royal Albert Hall (Ricky Gervais is the creator of the show The Office and the star of the original British version).

Before we left Canada, John’s boss, Martin, and his wife, Leanore, took us out for dinner in Vancouver. They have both done lots of traveling but the recommendation that stuck with us from that night was when Leanore exclaimed that we must visit RRRRRRRonda! So, on Tuesday, we took Leanore’s advice and headed into the steep Spanish hills to see the town of Ronda. Ronda is built on either side of a very steep gorge and it is connected by an impressive bridge. The city and the scenery were breathtaking. We took in the views at various look out spots and wandered the streets before treating ourselves to ice cream and heading back to the pool.

About an hour past Estepona, on the Atlantic side of Spain is a town called Tarifa and a string of beaches famous for the windsurfing and kitesurfing. I got John two days of kitesurfing lessons for his birthday and Wednesday was day one. Windmills covered the range of hills leading into Tarifa. The Spanish coast on the Med side is covered in condos but on the Atlantic side, due to the constant strong winds, there are only a few little hotels and hostels for the windsurfers. We pulled into a hotel parking lot and watched a guy on a 4x4 herd his cows down the road while waiting for the Dragon Kite School instructors to arrive. The lesson was on a huge, windswept, scorching hot beach and Day 1 consisted of learning to fly the kite. A guy in John’s lesson from Switzerland is in the airline industry and knew of John’s company because he is good friends with the guy that now works out of John’s office in Vancouver – small world!

We left John to the kite flying and drove to the first of two recommended beaches along the coast, Bolonia beach. At Bolonia, there were some very well kept Roman columns which we had a quick look at before determining it was far to windy for us to set up camp on the beach. We decided to go to the Canos de Meca beach which the guide book said had beautiful white sand and was sheltered from the wind. It was an interesting but long drive to Canos de Meca, past fields of windmills, a white washed hilltop town and through a forest, but the beach ended up being just as windy. We pulled out our towels and lay out in the sheltered dunes for a while, admiring the kite surfers’ skills, before getting sand blasted and heading back to see how John was doing. John got the hang of the kite flying and was excited to go back on Day 2 to get in the water.

On Thursday, John and I went back to Tarifa for his next lesson. It was another clear day so we could enjoy the views of Gibraltar and Africa enroute. Sarah, Kevin and Cole were going to walk the beach around our place and follow it into Estepona.

As we arrived at the beach, the instructors warned that it might be too windy to go out. Sand was blasting across the beach and stinging our legs. While they got set up on the beach, I explored the parking area. There were several hippy camping vans with wind/kite surfing gear attached to the roofs and there were a few permanent campers. It was quite the contrast to the developed Mediterranean shore line. After about half an hour, the kite surfing group headed up from the beach; unfortunately, it was so windy that it would be too dangerous for them to go out on the water. Sorry John, I owe you another day of kitesurfing lessons. Perhaps in Sardinia in June…

We went back to Estepona to find S, K and C. My sister senses were tingling and they guided us to the right spot on the right beach, right where the Anseeuws had set up camp. It was kind of cool. The beach was sheltered and hot so we decided to hang out there for the afternoon. Poor John; he spent most of that afternoon and some time every other day on his blackberry working. Oh the roaming charges!

On Friday morning we drove through the city of Algeciras, parked at the harbour and walked across the border to the British territory of Gibraltar. Gibraltar is a big rock with about 30,000 in habitants and a bunch of apes. The main industry is the military, supplying and repairing ships when they are in the harbour, and tourism. They are working on projects to reclaim some of the land around the rock.


We paid for the tour which took us on some crazy, skinny cliff roads up the mountain. The views of the harbour, Africa and Spain were spectacular! The first stop on the tour was St. Michael’s cave. It had huge caverns and cool stalactites and stalagmites. During WWII, the cave was used as a hospital. We then drove up to the top of Gibraltar to take in the views and check out the apes. There are 5 groups of apes living on Gibraltar and they are very well fed, but super aggressive. Kevin saw one jump on a young girl’s head to steal her food. The last stop was at the Great Siege Tunnels, created in 1782 during the Great Siege. They proved to be a strategic advantage in wars after that as well. From there we had a good view of Gibraltar’s airport runway. Six flights fly out a day, and the runway is split by the main road into Gibraltar so traffic has to stop when the planes take off. Lucky for John one took off just as we were leaving and he was able to get it on video.



Saturday, our last day in Spain, we decided to do a quick road trip so we would have more pool time. We drove inland to the little town of Casares, which is perched atop a hill. All the buildings are white and the roads running throughout are skinny and quaint. At the very top of the hill there was a 14th century castle in ruins.

A few months ago I read a book called The Queen of the South. It was set in Southern Spain (all the places that we were driving around) and it was about a woman who ran a big drug smuggling operation. In her early days, she would run drugs in a small speed boat in the Med around Gibraltar, and she would often be chased by the police in a helicopter. I kept thinking of this book during the week. After we got back from Casares and had a bit of pool time, Sarah, Cole and I decided to go for a walk. We walked by a motor boat run onto shore and a few police officers interviewing people. We didn’t think much of it but on our way back, a police helicopter swooped down into the bay in front of us and there were 6 more police officers on shore. We asked a lady watching the scene from her balcony and she said a drug smuggler ran his boat on shore and then escaped on foot. The police were trying to find him. That added a bit of excitement to our walk and brought to life that book I read.

We had such an awesome time hanging out together, relaxing by the pool and touring the area but we didn’t make it to Marbella (ritzy resort town), or the ferry over to Africa, or to Granada. Wish list for next time I guess.

Cole was a great traveler. He has a wonderfully cheery personality. We loved his dance moves (the crazy eyed Stevie, the prayer, the side slap and the leg kicks). I’m going to miss his smile. Good thing we can web cam.

On our last night, the boys polished off the last of their San Miguel beer and the girls attempted to overtake them in cribbage but to no avail. One of my favourite songs, Dario G’s Sunchyme, came on the radio so we got Cole dancing. We were up early on Sunday morning to get to the Malaga airport. Sarah made her last batch of amazing sandwiches for us to take. S,K and C flew to Barcelona where they started a week long cruise through the Mediterranean, stopping at Nice, Rome, Naples, and Palermo. They are back in London for a few days after the cruise before flying back to Canada. I’m so happy we get to see them again; I’m suffering from Cole withdrawal already...

Thanks Sarah, Kev and Cole for the great time in Spain. Happy 30th Birthday John!

Mitchell Family in London

It all started at Christmas time when Kevin, my brother in law, surprised my sister Sarah with a trip to London and Europe as a Christmas present for their family (including their new son, Cole). After that, Mom and Stan booked their visit timing it with an animal welfare conference in Berlin and with Sarah, Kevin and Cole’s visit. My aunt and uncle in Denmark, Carla and Poul, thought it would be a good chance to see everyone and meet Cole so they booked tickets to London. And then, Carla suggested to my aunt Barbara that she bring her family (uncle Bruce and cousins Eleanor, Margot and Hugh) to London – and they booked tickets too! I couldn’t believe it, all this family converging in London! Needless to say, I was over the top excited.

Barbara and her family arrived on Monday, May 7th and spent the week in Central London visiting all the sights. Carla joined them on Wednesday. Of course the weather had been hot and sunny prior to their arrival and then it turned to rain. On Thursday night they all made their way to the Ealing Ramada in West London, about a 10 minute walk from our flat. I joined them for a late dinner and then walked Carla, Barbara and Margot to our flat in the pouring rain so they could check it out.

John and I were up at 5:30 Friday morning to go to Heathrow to pick up Sarah, Kevin and Cole. I barely slept the night before and the car couldn’t move fast enough to the airport. S&K have discovered the benefits of a traveling with a baby, namely skipping the queues. They made record time getting through Heathrow: they were last off the plane but were ushered right by an hour long wait at Customs and then their bags were waiting for them on the carousel! We made it there in time to greet them as they walked through the gates. Cole had a big grin on his face, he was carried by Sarah in the Baby Bjorn and Kevin had the video camera getting Cole’s arrival in London on tape. I was so happy to see them all.

The sun shone as we drove them to Ealing. Sarah and I were in the back seat with Cole and I couldn’t take my eyes off him. S&K made an adorable baby! We got them back to the flat and settled in for a nap, and I made it to the office in time for my 8:30 Friday morning meeting. It was tough to leave, the flat that is.

When I walked in the door from work later that afternoon, I was greeted to the pleasant sounds of S&K, Cole, Mom and Stan, and John chatting in our living room. I’m usually pretty happy when I get home from work but never as much as on that day. We just hung out for a few hours enjoying each other’s company until the aunts, uncles and cousins arrived from their day of sight seeing. The 14 of us went for a lovely dinner at a local Italian restaurant. As we were leaving, a guy at the table next to us asked Stan about his belt buckle. He was from a ranch in the interior of British Columbia and now lives in Ealing – small world!

We all rendezvoused at the flat on Saturday morning. Mom and the Aunts kindly went grocery shopping for our dinner that night, and then they went to Osterley Park and Manor for some sister bonding. John went to play in an Ultimate Frisbee tournament for the day. The rest of us all went in to Central London to do the London Eye. I thought it was amazing that we were all able to stick together in the crowded tube stations and the crowded streets of London. London is not wheelchair or stroller friendly so it was nice having all the family members to help S&K with Cole’s stroller. At the London Eye, the men stood in the long line to get us our tickets. We pulled out Cole when we got to the line up to get on the Eye, and all 10 of us got to skip it! I really enjoyed the slow ride on the huge Ferris wheel overlooking London. It gave me a good overview, reminded me that London is not very big, and it was neat to see the sights from above.

After the Eye, we walked along and over the Thames River, and had a bite to eat near Embankment and Charing Cross. We had plans to do a quick walking tour until it started to pour rain. So, we ran into the nearest tube station and headed back to Ealing. From there, Kevin and Poul went exploring in Ealing (and by exploring, I mean finding a pub and having a beer) and Bruce and Hugh went to the temporary amusement park set up in Ealing Common. When the ladies got back from tea at Osterley, Barbara took Margot shopping, Carla, John and Sarah met the boys at the pub, and Mom and I looked after Cole and started making dinner.

John’s 30th Birthday was on Monday, May 14th, so on Saturday night with all of the family present, we had a big birthday dinner and celebration. Our friends Andrew and Jess joined in the fun. We all crammed into our little flat and everyone contributed to the dinner. It was a fun night of eating, chatting, playing games and hanging out together. Of course there was birthday cake and present opening. John thanks everyone for all of the thoughtful gifts.

We did most of the goodbyes on Saturday night but left a few for Sunday morning. SK&C, John and I were leaving for a week in Spain and everyone else was headed back home.

I had such a wonderful time with everyone and still can’t get over what a unique experience it was. Thank you all for coming to London. It made me really happy but of course really sad to say goodbye.

Wales, UK

On Friday night (May 4th), after spending a few days in Berlin at a conference, Mom and Stan arrived in London! I was so excited for their visit that I could barely do anything but be excited all week. Mom and I had a tearful reunion at Heathrow, 8 months after our tearful farewell at Lake O’hara in September. On Saturday, we went to Wales to go walking (British hiking). It was the perfect way to spend the weekend and to catch up with Suze and Stan (S&S); lots of time to visit while driving, walking and dining. We had narrowed our destination down to Newport in north Pembrokeshire because of the coastal walks and the walks through the Preseli Hills which are scattered with ancient pagan standing stones. It turned out to be the perfect place because Newport was a quaint town with lots to offer on its own.

This country is small compared to Canada, but we continue to be amazed at how long it takes to drive places, due to small roads and dense traffic. Many of the country roads in Wales are bordered by high stone walls and shrubs making it difficult to see the countryside as you drive.

After a five hour journey we arrived in St. David’s on the Western tip of Wales and the Pembrokeshire Coast. St. David’s, Britain’s smallest city, is home to a famous Cathedral and a Bishop’s Palace. Stan did not want to spend his vacation in Britain visiting churches and castles so Mom promised him that this would be the only one. Usually cathedrals are built in prominent locations, however this one was built in a gully to attempt to hide it from marauders travelling by sea or land. Unfortunately, this strategy didn’t work that well, as it was attacked several times. The cathedral is impressive and so are the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace.

From St. David’s we did a short drive to the beach and walked along classic Wales’ coastline cliffs to St. David’s head. Our B&B was in Newport, northeast of St. David’s and still on the coast. The B&B was an old house that had been beautifully renovated only a year ago. We had views from our rooms overlooking the sea. Our host spent time telling us about all of Newport’s places of interest: Pentre Ifan (5,000 year old standing stones), the castle, St. Mary’s church, the beach, the mystical forest and the nearby Cwm Gwaun valley, where the community that lives there still follows an ancient calendar. Saturday night, we had a hearty dinner of meat pies and burgers at the Golden Lion pub, a good British experience for S&S. We even got a quarter of a pint of pull ale into Mom.

After a lovely breakfast on Sunday morning we headed out on the short version of the Preseli Hills Circuit (12km). It was sunny for a while, then it turned cloudy with a few drops of rain, and it was constantly windy. We were lucky that we didn’t get poured on. The trail took us up into the bare Preseli Hills, past the steep rock outcrop Carn Ingli, through fields of sheep and then down into the eerie Cwm Gwaun valley. The steep walls of the valley were covered with corkscrew oak trees and carpets of blue bells. It was beautiful but the banjo tune from the movie Deliverance kept running through my head which made me wary.

We found a quaint tea house on a farm in the valley where we could warm up and fill our bellies. The quirky hostess served us and told us about the valley (she said that they are all very “close” there), her farm, and her gardens which she has bus loads of people in to view. I was giving John and hug and asking if he was alright; our hostess picked up on that and comment to John, “Oh, so you’re not used to the walking are you? You must be a townie”. Stan didn’t let that one go for the rest of the weekend.

We finished the walk by going through more fields and by an ancient standing stone. All of the walks are on public footpaths through private land. Stan was baffled by this concept and kept trying to think of ingenious fencing ideas to keep walkers out of the fields.

After our walk, we had a quick warm up at the B&B before heading out in the car to see Pentre Ifan, the impressive 5,000 year old standing stones that used to form a burial mound. A 16 tonne flat stone lies on top of three standing stones. The whole structure looks precarious but I don’t think its going anywhere. The stones from Stonehenge came from the same area. This little jaunt was Stan’s first attempt at driving on the left side of the road and the right side of the car. It was a good place for a first drive as there was no traffic and the roads were only wide enough for one car so he didn’t have to remember to stay on the left. He did well and managed not to scrape up the left side of the car on any of the stone walls.

After Pentre Ifan, we went back into Cwm Gwuan Valley in order to check out the Duffrin Arms Pub (aka Bessie’s pub). About five different people had told us we had to go see it because it was “an experience”. The rain had set in so the valley was dark and even more eerie. After passing a crowd of locals heading into Church on Sunday evening, we found Bessie’s pub. The pub was a converted sitting room of a house with seating for about 10, with a tiled floor, and a hole in the wall from where you could order Bessie’s home brew beer. A glimpse was all the “experience” we needed as we weren’t sure how friendly the locals would be if we stayed for a beer (again, the banjo tune from Deliverance was running through my head). I’m sure you needed special Cwm Gwuan Valley stomach enzymes to digest the beer as well.

We had another great dinner in Newport and then we strolled down to the beach to burn it off. Of course Mom and I got carried away with the exploring and we didn’t end up getting back until well after dark.

Monday, bank holiday weekend in the UK (ie: a long weekend), we did a shorter walk, only a few hours around Dinas Head. It was a good contrast to the hill walk the day before, giving us steep coastal cliffs (if somewhat in the clouds). We ended at a little beach and a convenient tea house with great cakes. Mom was very impressed with the tea houses.

Instead of taking the main highways to Cheltenham, we took the scenic route through the Brecon Beacons (a famous National Park in Wales). It gave us a great glimpse of more of Wales but it took a long time. On all of our drives, John and I enjoyed listening to S&S’s agriculture commentary as we passed different fields of crops and livestock. It added a new dimension to travel for us. In Cheltenham, John and I caught the train back to London. We left S&S with the rental car and maps so they could make their way to the beautiful Cowley Mannor, their hotel/spa for the night. After Cowley they went to to Bodysgallen Hall in North Wales and then to visit some friends. I was so worried about them on the British roads I had to call every night to check on them, but they did just fine and had a wonderful time.

Our long weekend walking in Wales turned out wonderfully. We did all of the walks and saw all of the sites I had hoped, but it wouldn’t have mattered if we didn’t because it was just so nice to be with Mom and Stan again. It made me sad knowing it was only for a short time. Luckily, I had another weekend with them and 10 other family members to look forward to. My Aunt Barb and Uncle Bruce along with my cousins, Eleanor, Margot and Hugh were arriving in London from Calgary, Aunt Carla and Uncle Poul were arriving from Denmark, and my sister, her husband and new baby, Cole, arrived from Winnipeg. Another weekend I couldn’t wait for!